You can buy canvas buy the roll or by the yard at your local art store. There are different types of canvas you can purchase at different weights. A lot of artist prefer a very distinct type of canvas. I personally have no real bias. The only real concern we have in this lesson is primed or not primed. The best thing about unprimed canvas is that it is cheaper and much easier to stretch. But It can be a real headache if you have time constraints. You have to prime and re-prime at least 3-4 times before you can start painting. The most cost effective method for priming is your average latex primer you would find in a hardware store. Do not start painting until the canvas is fully sealed with primer. You will loose so much paint and be so frustrated as the colours soak into the cloth. I usually buy primed canvas. Its ready to go with the proper acid free primer and no waiting around. The down side is it's a lot work to get that canvas tight as a drum. Its a real work out! And if you have weak or arthritic hands don't even bother, stick to unprimed.

Step 1- You will need some supplies. A regular T50 stapler with staples 3/8 of an inch. A hammer to hammer those staples flat if need be. Canvas of course. A box cutter, to cut and trim the canvas. Stretcher bars (you can purchase them at any art store) Double check the bars when you buy them sometimes they can be weak or damaged this will compromise the strength of your canvas. You may want to pick up a pair of stretcher pliers. Make sure when you buy one go for the higher end. Lower end pliers have rougher teeth and a bad habit of ripping your canvas. You don't need them but they do give an ultimate tightness to your canvas especially if you are using primed canvas.

Step 2 - Joining the stretcher bars is easy. Take time to get the perfect 90 degree angle. You want the weight evenly dispersed as possible. You can reinforce the joints with wood glue but I just use staples. Three should do it. There is a lip on most stretcher bars. Use the lipped side to place your staples. The higher lip will protect the canvas from the staples. The last thing you want is the staples showing through in your painting.

Step 3 - Cutting the canvas to size. Depending on the thickness of your stretcher bars (I use CMD bars which has the thickness of 3/4 of an inch) you want at least a 2 inch perimeter around the frame. If you can cut 3 inches around, Great! It makes it easier to stretch if you have more to hold on to. You can buy CMG bars which are thicker, 1 1/2 inches in thickness. The thicker ones are better for larger canvases they warp less. You will need at least 3 inches for a CMG frames.

Step 4 - This is the most important step. The first 4 staples will dictate the tightness of the canvas. You can use the stretcher pliers to get the ultimate pull. Make sure there is an even amount of canvas around the whole perimeter. When pulling the canvas it is easy to shift all the material to one side. The first two staples should be at 12 o'clock then at 6 o'clock as tight as possible. Then the next two at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.

Step 5 - Placement of the staples at this point is still important. You have to crisscross your staples from side to side. Dont focus on just one side at a time. When pulling the canvas still pull as tight as you can, but also pull away from the center and toward the corners. This will stop bulging as all the extra canvas is being forced to the corners of the frame. If you get an awkward bulge near the center you may have to start over but a bulge in the corner can easily be fixed.

Step 6 - Making the corners tight is a good sign of great craftsmanship. Pull tightly on the area shown in the picture. Then staple it into place. I usually add two more to each corner to evenly distribute the tension.

Note - If the painting is large over 35 inches you may need to install support beams so the canvas does not warp. These beams run horizontally inside the frame. Even professionally stretched canvas can warp with out these bars.